- Start with clean, sound substrate; if applying over a painted surface make sure that the paint is load bearing. Figure out the desired layout for all decorative ceiling beams. Measure and mark the inside dimension of each beam on the ceiling at each end and one mark in the center of the room. Chalk lines for each inside dimension of the decorative beam or pencil a line using a long straight edge.
(Measuring the inside of the beam to determine the distance between outside edges of the 2x2 strips)
(Using the inside beam measurements, 2 parallel guide lines are marked on the ceiling for the strips to installed on.)
- Using a 3/32” drill bit, pre-drill holes 24” on center through the 2” x 2” KD nailing strips. Place nailing strip on the inside of the chalk line and re-drill through each hole to mark the spot to accept the drywall anchor. Pull the nailing strip down and screw in the drywall anchors. Apply a ¼” continuous bead of PL Premium® Polyurethane Construction Adhesive to the back side of the nailing strip.
- Place the nailing strip back on the ceiling and attach with 3-1/8” GRK R4 #9 multipurpose screws that screw into the drywall anchors. 2” x 6” (minimum length of 12”) KD wood blocks are also approved for the installation of beams. They should be spaced 36” on center at a minimum. Pre-drill 2 holes (4 holes for larger beams) in each block and use the same application technique for the nailing strips.
(Pre-drilling holes into the wooden strips. These will be used re-drill into the ceiling)
(Drilling through pre-drilled holes into the ceiling )
(Making the hole big enough for the butterfly anchor)
(Pushing the butterfly anchor thought the hole to hold the strips in place)
(Tightening the anchor using a screw-gun)
- Measure the distance on the ceiling for the beam to be cut. We recommend that a ¼” is added to the length cut. A miter power saw or a Japanese hand saw are our first choices to cut these beams. Most walls are not square and the beam can always be sanded or shaved to the exact size.
(Marking lines using a speed square to assure a straight line)
(Ron Hazelton is cutting a faux wood beam using Japanese saw. )
(Sanding block is used to take of excess for a snug fit)
- Most beams from the factory are not square at each end. Square up one end then measure and mark for length. Using a framing square, draw a line on the 3 sides of the beam to be cut. Use a standard wood hand saw and slowly cut through the beam. If the beam was fabricated – watch for the screws that were used to manufacture the beam.
- Dry fit beam in place over 2 x 2 wooden strips material before applying adhesive to make sure it fits well.
- Pull beam back down and apply adhesive to the sides of the 2” x 2” nailing strip or 2x blocking.
- Reinstall beam and fasten with GRK #9 Kameleon finish screws 24” on center (minimum) and embed the screw 1/16” – 1/8” below the surface of the beam. An air powered finish nailer with finish nails is also acceptable if the beam is 2 lbs per L/F.
(Placing beam over the strips with adhesive already applied to them)
(Fastening the beam with screws)
(Filling the screw hole with a putty)
Below are videos recommended you watch to see more details on how to install faux wood beams.
Tools and Supplies You'll Need To Install Faux Wood Beams
This project requires 2 or more people depending on the lengths of the beams.
Available Sample Packs
Samples are available in 8x8x11 or in 4x4x1 size. We also offer an all finishes pack.